Schechter earned his pizza stripes at kitchens like Pizzeria Delfina and PizzaHacker. “People have an appetite in SF for what’s new, and everybody in the pizza world is going crazy for square” says Marc Schechter, who runs the increasingly popular Detroit-style pizza pop-up Square Pie Guys with partner Danny Stoller.Ī post shared by Detroit in The Bay on at 5:48pm PST To him, it’s funny that Detroit style is suddenly “the hazy IPA of pizza,” - a reference to the very trendy beer style.īut plenty of San Francisco consumers are more than happy to chase trends. They’re exactly square, rather than rectangular.Ĭellarmaker co-founder Connor Casey doesn’t consider himself a trend chaser: He just wanted his new brewpub to have great food to accompany its beer. At the new brewpub, he’ll be making exclusively square pies, and to do so, Malyniwksy even commissioned Lloyd for 80 custom pans. Michael Malyniwsky, the chef at Cellarmaker Brewing Co.’s soon-to-open brewpub and pizza restaurant, Cellarmaker House of Pizza, say’s he’s owned every pizza pan Lloyd has ever made. According to Robert Johnson, Lloyd’s marketing manager, they’ve doubled in popularity every year since.īarbara Pinseria Takes SF on a Roman Holiday With Cocktails and Square Slices
In 2014, Washington-based industrial pan maker Lloyd introduced Detroit style pans in 8” by 10” and 10” by 14” sizes. Enterprising newcomers, like Randazzo’s company, have stepped in to fill the void, as have larger producers. Meanwhile, many of the original pan makers have closed up shop. It’s not a fad.”Īs fans of Buddy’s from beyond Detroit sought to recreate the style, they ran into two problems: Getting the right pans, and sourcing Wisconsin brick cheese, the topping of choice at Buddy’s and beyond, which once cost as much to ship to San Francisco as Mozzarella di Bufala, Gemignani says.
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“The caramelized cheese that you’re chiseling out of that pan - it’s that burnt mac and cheese taste you had as a kid growing up, you just wanna keep eating it and eating it.”Īnd don’t tell Gemignani that this style is a flash in the pan. “When you eat it, the flavor just pops,” says Gemignani, who was the first to offer Detroit pizza in San Francisco at his restaurants in 2012. According to Buddy’s vice president of operations Wesley Pikula, the bar and restaurant borrowed industrial blue steel pans used by Motor City’s many auto workers, removing their silicon coating and stuffing them with a Sicilian pizza dough. In her definitive guide to the style, Houck follows its origins to Buddy’s, a bar and restaurant which produced the original Detroit pizza in 1946. “It’s that burnt mac and cheese taste you had as a kid growing up” “A lot of new pizzerias are embracing the thicker, lighter square pies.” “Detroit-style pizza is really having its moment across the US, from Emmy Squared in New York to Austin’s Via 313,” says Houck. Several years ago, Eater Detroit editor Brenna Houck set a google alert for “Detroit-style pizza.” Now, as more and more businesses advertise their Detroit-style offerings, it yields results every day. Golden Boy’s iconic North Beach sign Jeremey Brooks/Flickr In San Francisco - where round, thin-crust Neapolitan pizza has long been the gold standard - it’s suddenly hip to be square. Slices of Detroit-style pepperoni are by far the restaurant’s best seller, says Siu. “Nobody had ever competed with it.”Īfter purchasing a set of Detroit-style pans, the Sius opened Pizza Squared last year, offering both Sicilian and Detroit-style pizzas. “People were like, what the hell is this,” recalls Tony Gemignani, the decorated Bay Area pizzaiolo and restaurateur.
In fact, the style had been the talk of the expo since 2012, when pizzaiolo Shawn Randazzo, who now runs the Detroit Style Pizza Company, won the International Pizza Challenge with a style that was largely unheard of: Detroit pizza. The Sius planned to do something similar - but when they traveled to a pizza industry conference in March 2017, the Las Vegas Pizza Expo, something new was in the air: Detroit-style pizza, a rectangular pie (frequently described as square) made from puffy Sicilian-style dough, with pan-crisped edges encrusted in caramelized cheese and sauce slathered on top. But as SF natives, he and Christina had fond memories of Golden Boy, whose unique, Sicilian-inspired square slices, essentially focaccia with pizza toppings, have satisfied a hungry, frequently hammered North Beach clientele since 1978. “Everyone’s doing wood fire and Neapolitan style,” says Ryan Siu. When Ryan and Christina Siu found a space in Mission Bay for their quick-service pizza restaurant, Pizza Squared, they wondered how they could stand out in the pizza saturated Bay Area market.
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